Zinalrothorn and Obergabelhorn – two difficult Valais Peaks

Gneiss as hard as steel and climbing in the upper third degree of difficulty.


Region: Valais, Switzerland
Fitness Kondition
Technic Technik
maximum participants: 1
Prices: Euro 1990.-

Tour Character

Demanding 4000m peaks. Glaciers, exposed snow ridges, medium difficult and partly exposed rock climbing.

Required Skill and Fitness Level

Skill: You should be absolutely safe and comfortable on crampons – walking or climbing including exposed sharp snow ridges. A few short sections will be as steep as 40 degrees. Efficient and easy rock climbing up to level III to III+.

Fitness: Up to 8 hour climbs per day (see tour itinerary).

Tour Description

They are not the highest 4000m peaks around Zermatt, but for certain they have the most beautiful main routes. Two perfectly shaped mountains, which could not be more differing: the Zinalrothorn with its varied access and the wonderful – easy to grip-climbing sections at the end and the Obergabelhorn, with its demanding and exposed main route, which leads over the Wellenkuppe and the Gratgendarm to the highest point. In a word: two fantastic climbs starting from only one hut.

Details

  • Number of participants: 1 per guide
  • Services included: Organization, bookings and guiding by a state approved mountain and ski guide.
  • Services excluded: accommodation and food on the hut for the client and the guide.
  • Accomodation: Rothornhütte.
  • Misc: Insurances (accident, travel cancellation) at customer’s responsibility. Please refer to general terms and conditions.

1. Tag
Meeting point at 1 pm in Zermatt at Bahnhofsplatz. Ascent to the Rothornhütte approx. 4-5 hours. Alternative meeting point at 5 pm at the Rothornhütte. Overnight stay.

1600 m

0 m

4-5 hrs

2. Tag
Ascent Zinalrothorn via normal route, back to the hut. Overnight stay.Ascent of Zinalrothorn via the normal route: the route leads over the Rothorn glacier and easy climbing sections as well as a snow ridge to the summit flank. A ledge and a couloir lead us to the "fork" (a distinctive notch in the SW ridge). From the latter we climb over the ridge and the so-called Biner-Platte to the summit. We return to the hut via the same route. Overnight stay.

1020 m

1020 m

7 hrs

3. Tag
Ascent Obergabelhorn via normal route, back to the hut and descent into the valley.Ascent of the Obergabelhorn via the normal route: over the Trift glacier we reach the east ridge of the Wellenkuppe, which we climb over easy rocks and snow. A short descent takes us to the foot of the Gendarme, which we use fixed ropes to make climbing over easier. We climb to the summit of the Obergabelhorn via the northeast ridge. The same route takes us back to the hut. After the tour we descend into the valley.

1100 m

1100 m

8 hrs + 2 hrs descend into the valley


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